365 Plant-derived surfactants for personal care products.

P. E. BATOR. Henkel Corp., Hoboken, NJ.

Alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are synthesized by reacting corn starch glucose with a fatty alcohol by the Fischer synthesis. Alkyl polyglucosides are nonionic in nature, nitrogen-free and ethylene oxide-free. This discussion will center on two alkyl polyglycosides: lauryl polyglucose (LPG) with an alkyl chain length of C(12–16), and decyl polyglucose (DPG), with a chain length of C(8–16). The two alkyl polyglycosides are generally used differently: LPG as a secondary surfactant and DPG as a primary surfactant. LPG is a natural choice as a secondary surfactant for personal care products because of its level of surfactancy, mildness, and ability to build viscosity. Data indicates that anionic/LPG formulations vs. traditional anionic, alkanolamide formulations exhibited very similar viscosity building properties, while displaying better foaming properties. Additional benefits include a milder product, less color, and no nitrosamine issues. Discussion of LPG mildness will center on comparisons of relative erythema, scaling, and sensory parameters of various sodium laureth sulfate/polyglucose/additive combinations to the sodium laureth sulfate control. DPG is used as a primary surfactant because of its excellent foaming properties vs. conventional anionic surfactants. Comparative skin irritation data from the elbow wash test: erythema, scaling, sensory properties, and evaporimeter measurements for SLES (control), and a SLES/DPG combination will be discussed. Thus we will be able to demonstrate that the alkyl polyglucosides find applications in a multitude of formulations where foaming, cleansing, mildness, and enhanced conditioning are required.