363 Hair and skin care properties of native wheat gliadins.

J. VOLLHARDT. Dragoco Inc., Totowa, NJ.

A native wheat protein fraction was extracted from gluten by selective extraction with ethanol/water. The soluble part, commonly called wheat gliadins, was then dissolved in glycerine to be used as cosmetic ingredient for hair and skin care products. The native proteins suffered from no chemical modification and possessed hydrophobic properties. Therefore, they have outstanding features among all currently used proteins in the cosmetic industry. The interaction of such a protein with human hair and its benefits for hair and skin treatment was investigated. The extracted proteins were fluorescence-marked and applied to hair, which had been differently pretreated to induce specific kinds of damage. Fluorescence spectroscopy and microscopy demonstrated preferential binding to damaged hair areas. Deposition did occur especially between lifted cuticle scales or on places, where the cuticle layer has been removed totally, e.g. the tip region. Body friction, shine, tensile strength, and elasticity were assessed for bleached and waved hair after treatment with 0.2% native wheat protein shampoo versus a placebo treatment. A strong decrease of body friction forces was seen for the protein shampoo in comparison with the placebo formulation. The protein treated hair showed more shine relative to control. Both data indicate a less rough hair structure. Measurements on tensile strength and extension under wet conditions revealed an enhanced hair stability and elasticity for the protein shampoo treated hair.